Supplies

• Solar Panel

• Battery

• Charge Controller

• 14 AWG Spade connectors

• Fused battery leads

• 14 AWG stranded automotive or speaker wire.

Tools

• Phillips screwdriver

• Small flat head screwdriver

• Stripper/crimping tool

Instructions

See solar charge controller wiring for a diagram.

1. Prepare your cables by crimping 14 AWG spade connectors to the ends of all your cables.

   • For the battery, prepare one **** fused battery lead __ and one length of the 14 AWG stranded automotive/speaker wire.

2. Carefully inspect the charge controllers and note the positive and negative terminals for: the Solar Panel (input); the battery; the load (output).

3. Ensure the power rating on the back of the solar panel does not exceed the ratings of the charge controller.

4. Loosen the positive and negative terminals of the battery and attach the battery cable one at a time, using a fused battery lead for the positive terminal and 14 AWG stranded automotive/speaker wire to the negative terminal.

5. Loosen the positive and negative terminals for the battery on the solar charge controller and attached the battery cables, beginning with the positive side.

6. Proceed to connect the solar panel cables to the solar charge controller, again beginning with the positive side.

7. Finally, connect the load (receiver) to the load terminals of the solar charge controller, positive first.

How to build a Laird PLC1669 antenna

Contents

• Antenna and Coax assembly

  • 9-element Yagi (Laird)

  • 9-element Yagi (Intermod/Maple Leaf)

  • Omni (Intermod)

• Grounding Antennas

• Solar Power

• Storage Bin

• Structures

  • Building-bracketed Lattice Tower

  • Rock-anchored Lattice Tower

  • Tripod and Pop-up Mast

Before you go

1. Check for wiring to solar panel, battery, and receiver. Make sure you have the wiring and connectors needed.

2. Cover the battery terminals. It can be easy to accidentally short the battery terminals with a tool or cable which is a fire hazard.

3. Use the hole saw that’s the same size as the pipe elbow and a drill bit to cut a hole into the short side of the action packer. Attach the pipe elbow and the bushing.

4. Tape tool boxes shut to prevent them from opening accidentally. Zip tie larger totes shut, too.

Parts Checklist

Tools

Setup instructions

Base Plate

1. Find an elevated and relatively flat rocky location large enough to fit the base plate (~1 foot in diameter)
2. Place the base plate on the ground and use a metal tool or grease marker to mark the center of each hole in the base plate.
3. Wearing safety goggles and an N-95 mask, use the rotary hammer to drill each hole about 3 inches deep. You should hold both handles while drilling – if you only hold the trigger it can break your wrist! Use the clear plastic tubing to blow the rock dust out of the hole periodically. You will likely need to replace the battery between holes.
4. Place a wedge anchor in each hole with the threads facing up and use the mallet to drive the anchor into the hole as far as it will go.

5. Put the base plate over the wedge anchors and then add the washers then nuts to each wedge anchor. Use the channel locks to tighten the nuts as much as possible.

Anchors for guy wires

1. Using the tape measure, mark a position on the bedrock that is at least 7 feet (213 cm) from the base of the tower, starting from one of the corners of the triangular base plate. Do this for each of the 3 corners.
2. Wearing safety goggles and an N-95 mask, use the rotary hammer and 5/8” masonry bit to drill each hole about 2 1/2 inches deep. You should hold both handles while drilling – if you only hold the trigger it can break your wrist! Use the clear plastic tubing to blow the rock dust out of the hole periodically. You will likely need to replace the battery between holes.
3. Place an expansion eye bolt in each of the drilled holes and use a mallet to drive them in. Use a wrench or channel lock to tighten the nuts on the top of each eye bolt.

Top kit

1. Open up the top kit box and baggies. It comes with instructions for two models – ours is the 244A so don’t worry about the diagrams with the U-bolts. The video below walks through these instructions. Follow instructions and video to put together this part. The only difference is that you’ll also be attaching the guy station brackets to the top where the bolt holes go. You won’t be using the larger V-shaped pieces of the guy station.

Guy wires

1. Take free end of the wire still attached to the spool and thread two crimps onto it. Feed the wire rope back through the crimps to make a small loop.
2. Add a wire rope thimble to the loop and the pull the wire rope to tighten the loop around it. Use the swage tool (if you have it) or the wire cutters to crimp the wire crimps onto the wire rope. If wire cutters are too difficult, you can also try the bolt cutters, but be gentle!
3. Attach a carabiner to the looped end and attach the carabiner to one the guy station brackets on the tower. Unspool about 15 feet (4.5 m) of wire rope, but don’t cut it yet.
4. Raise the tower and sit it onto the base plate in the position you imagine it to be when it’s finally set up. Use the level (it should be magnetic) to make sure the tower is vertical during the following steps.

5. With someone holding the tower (and ensuring the tower stays level), bring the spooled end of the guy wire to the eye bolt closest to that corner of the tower. While pulling the guy wire taught, measure about 1 foot (30 cm) beyond the eye bolt and then cut the cable using wire cutters.
6. On the new end of the cable segment you just cut, thread on 2 guy wire crimps and then feed the guy wire back through the 2 crimps to make a small loop. Add a wire rope thimble and then attach a turnbuckle to the new looped end of the cable. Don’t crimp the guy wire crimps yet!
7. Loosen the turnbuckle almost all the way until 1 turn or so before the bolt would come out.

8. Attach a carabiner to the free end of the turnbuckle and the carabiner to the expansion eye bolt.
9. Pull on the loose end of the guy wire until the guy wire is mostly taught and then crimp the guy wire crimps.

10. Repeat steps 2 thru 10 for the two other corners of the tower.

Mast

1. These steps are a bit complicated because you won’t be able to climb the tower to adjust the antenna bearings once the tower has been raised. You may have to adjust the antenna bearings multiple times before you’re satisfied with their position.

2. Lean the tower on a rock or the storage bin so the top is in the air.

3. Slide the mast into the top kit so the bottom is about 1 inch below the lower clamp of the top kit. Tighten the bolts so the mast doesn’t want to slide around.

4. Slide on the two Yagi antennas, starting with green and then yellow (green is on the bottom).

5. Slide on the two omni mounting brackets and then slide the omni on to the bracket. Tighten the bolts on the bracket until the omni is fixed firmly in place.

6. Attach the RED coax cable to the omni and zip tie it to the mast below it.

7. Slide up the YELLOW antenna until it’s directly below the omni and fix it firmly in place.

8. Use a compass or compass app on your phone to get the bearings for the two directions you’d like to point your Yagis.

9. Move the GREEN antenna until it is about 2 feet below the YELLOW antenna and then rotate it until the relative angle between the two antennas is the same as the angle between the two bearings you’d like to point them. Tighten the larger U bolts to fix the antenna firmly in place.

10. Rotate the angle of the antenna elements to ensure both Yagi antennas will be properly horizontal and once the tower is raised and then tighten the smaller U bolts to fix them firmly in place. Since the tower is leaning over in this step, it might be easier to make them horizontal if you just make sure the elements are perpendicular to the mast.

11. Get the compass bearing for one of the points on the base plate and then estimate how you’ll have to rotate the mast so the antennas are pointing in the intended direction once the tower is raised.

12. Tighten all the bolts on both mast clamps so the mast is fixed firmly in place.

13. Zip tie the coax cable to the mast all the way down the tower and then use the wire clips to clip off the ends of the zip ties.

Raising the Tower

1. Use the channel locks to squeeze the attachment points on the base plate so they are a little closer together.

2. Open the package of nuts and bolts that was attached to the base plate.

3. Carefully raise the tower and place on each of the attachment points.

4. With 2 people holding the tower up, check the antenna bearings to make sure they’re pointing in the right direction. If you need to adjust, lower the tower back down and try again.

5. With 2 people holding the tower up, a third person can start inserting the bolts into the attachment points. Bolts should be pointing inward to avoid scraping ankles on the ends. The feet of the tower will be raised a bit – this is normal. After putting a bolt in, add a lock washer and a nut on the other end. You only need it finger tight until all bolts are inserted.

6. Attach each guy line to their anchors, but make sure all the turnbuckles are still loose.

7. Use the magnetic level to make sure the tower is level. The people holding the tower should continuously ensure the tower is level as you start tightening the turnbuckles. You will likely have to tighten all the turnbuckles part way before doing a final tighten. You want the guy wires to be taught.

8. Tighten the nut on the turnbuckles to lock them in place and they won’t rotate any more.

Parts Checklist

Tools

Hardware

Steps

Choosing a location

The most important thing in choosing where to locate a tower on a building is to choose the location with the least obstructed view for the antennas. For example, the 9-element Yagi Antennas can reach about a 20 KM range, assuming that there is nothing obstructing their view within that distance. First step is to choose which direction you want your directional (Yagi) antennas to point. Then choose a location on the building where that direction can be easily accessed by the antenna. This usually means attaching near the highest point on the building so that the building it is attached to does not get in the way, but this is not necessary if the antennas all point away from the building. Other things to consider include:

• Relatively flat ground where the base plate needs to sit.

• Away from power lines, in case the equipment falls during installation.

• Where there is a bit of roof overhang (best for attaching brackets).

• Near an A/C outlet, otherwise you are running a long extension cable.

• Within range of Wi-Fi if you plan to connect. Otherwise you might want to use a Wi-Fi extender. This means you won’t have to download data manually.

Tower sections

1. If you need more than one 10 ft tower section, bolt multiple sections together by inserting the smaller end into the larger end.

2. Bolt pieces together using bolts provided (taped to tower sections). The bolts should be pointing inward to avoid scraping ankles on the ends when climbing.

Top kit

1. The end of the tower section with a smaller tube diameter is the top, where the top kit gets attached.

2. Open up the top kit box and baggies. It comes with instructions for two models (see below) – ours is the 244A so don’t worry about the diagrams with the U-bolts. There is also a video showing how to do this part so it may be helpful to have that on hand when in the field.

House brackets

1. Get a measurement from the ground to where the house brackets will attach to the building (underneath roof overhang).

2. Attach house brackets in approximately the right position on the lattice tower. Secure brackets to tower using ubolts and plates. See video instructions at timestamps 0:00 to 4:15.

Mast

1. Slide the mast into the top kit so the bottom is about 1 inch below the lower clamp of the top kit. Tighten the bolts on the top mast clamp so the mast stays in place when raising the tower. Remember to later tighten all the bolts on both mast clamps so the mast is fixed firmly in place AFTER attaching antennas.

Base plate

1. Temporarily raise tower to visualize where the base plate should be once the tower is properly located. You want the tower sections to be close to the building, but at least a couple inches away so it doesn’t rub against the building.

Soft ground

If installing over soft ground (e.g., soil, small rocks), follow the written instructions below and/or in the video (timestamps 4:15 to 5:15).

1. Place the drive stakes in the three holes of the base plate at 45 degree angles, each facing 3 different directions so that the base plate cannot lift up.

2. Using a mallet, hammer roughly 4/5 of the length of the drive stakes into the ground.

Hard ground

If installing over hard ground (e.g., cement, large rock), follow these instructions:

1. Place the base plate on the ground and use a metal tool or grease marker to mark the center of each hole in the base plate.

2. Wearing safety goggles and an N-95 mask, use the rotary hammer to drill each hole about 3 inches deep. You should hold both handles while drilling – if you only hold the trigger it can break your wrist! Use the clear plastic tubing to blow the rock dust out of the hole periodically. You will likely need to replace the battery between holes.

1. Place a wedge anchor in each hole with the threads facing up and use the mallet to drive the anchor into the hole as far as it will go.

2. Put the base plate over the wedge anchors and then add the washers then nuts to each wedge anchor. Use the channel locks to tighten the nuts as much as possible.

Raising the tower

1. Use the channel locks to squeeze the attachment points on the base plate so they are a little closer together.

2. Open the package of nuts and bolts that was attached to the base plate.

3. Carefully raise the tower and place on each of the attachment points.

4. With 2 people holding the tower up, a third person can start inserting the bolts into the attachment points. Bolts should be pointing inward to avoid scraping ankles on the ends. The feet of the tower will be raised a bit – this is normal. After putting a bolt in, add a lock washer and a nut on the other end. You only need it finger tight until all bolts are inserted.

5. Use the magnetic level to make sure the tower is level. The people holding the tower should continuously ensure the tower is level as you attach the house brackets.

6. Attach 2x4 wood to underside of roof using lag bolts and impact driver.

7. Attach house brackets to 2x4 wood using lag bolts and impact driver.

8. Tighten U-Bolt attachment points on tower. Remember, you attached the housing brackets to the tower before raising the tower (see above), which makes this much easier than doing it when the tower is raised.

See additional video instructions at timestamps 5:15 and onward.

Antennas

1. Assemble the Yagi antennas using the provided instructions. Some helpful tips:

   a. The hose clamps should be placed at the edge of the tube to maximize the clamping power.

   b. Tighten the hose clamps using a 5/16 hex bit – it’s so much easier!

   c. Attach the coax cable and seal it using the provided coax-seal before zip-tying.

   d. Attach the mounting bracket such that the plate sits vertically while the antenna elements are horizontal and fix in place so that it won’t move around on its own, but can be adjusted with a little force.

2. Assemble the omni antenna mounting brackets. Keep it loose so it can still easily slide on to the omni.

3. Colour- and number-code each antenna and the coax cable (end nearest ground) it is attached to with electrical tape.

4. From the roof, slide the two Yagi antennas onto the mast

5. Slide on the two omni mounting brackets and then slide the omni on to the bracket. Tighten the bolts on the bracket until the omni is fixed firmly in place.

6. Lower the mast as needed to reach the top by untightening and retightening the bolts in the top mast clamp.

7. Once all antennas are in position and the mast is raised, tighten all the bolts on both mast clamps so the mast is fixed firmly in place.

8. Attach the designated coax cable to the omni and zip tie it to the mast below it.

9. Use a compass to get the bearings for the two directions you’d like to point your Yagis.

10. Slide up the middle antenna until it’s directly below the omni, point it in the right direction, and fix it firmly in place.

11. Move the bottom antenna until it is about 2 feet below the middle antenna and then rotate it until it is pointing in the correct direction. Tighten the larger U bolts to fix the antenna firmly in place.

12. Rotate the angle of the antenna elements to ensure both Yagi antennas will be properly horizontal (i.e., elements are perpendicular to the mast).

13. Tighten the smaller U bolts to fix them firmly in place.

14. Zip tie the coax cable to the mast all the way down the tower and then use the wire clips to clip off the ends of the zip ties.

15. Attach the coax cables to the receiver in the following order:

    a. Top antenna on the first connector

    b. Middle antenna on the second

    c. Bottom antenna on the third

Climb shields

1. Place climb shields at a height on the tower that will prevent anyone from being able to climb the stairs.

2. Use impact driver and self-tapping screws with 5/16 hex bit to attach climb shield to lattice tower.

3. Attach a Motus sign on climb shields using self-tapping screws.

Receiver

1. Attach receiver case to a) tower, or b) inside building for further waterproofing.

   a. If attaching a Sensorgnome to tower, drill holes in outside ridges of Pelican case and use zip ties to attach to tower. Make sure you attach in a way that the box can still be opened for maintenance. If attaching a SensorStation to tower, use bracket provided to attach case to tower.

   b. If attaching receiver inside, drill a hole in the building with a 1 ½” hole saw: Use the stud finder to check for wires in the wall before drilling. Run the cables through the hole, and connect the coax cables to the receiver as explained in step 11 of “Antennas” section. Secure the receiver case somewhere convenient and where it will not be disturbed/unplugged. Fill the hole in the wall with sealant.

2. If the receiver is outdoors and you want to plug the extension cord into the wall indoors (for waterproofing or easier access to an outlet), use the ½” hole saw to drill a hole into the building. Use the stud finder to check for wires in the wall before drilling. The end of the extension cord will need to be cut in order to fit into the hole and reattached to an electrical plug (male-end) once inside the building.

3. Follow instructions for Sensorgnome V1, Sensorgnome V2, or CTT SensorStation to power receiver and connect to available network.

Several varieties of antennas exist of which only a few will be covered here. All antennas should come with their own assembly instructions which are more or less easy to follow so we will not go into great detail here. Please see antenna anatomy for more details on parts.

Recommended accessories

• Coax seal. This is a type of soft rubber or silicone which is used to seal antenna connections. This is typically purchased separately from the antenna. Marine Goop (with UV protectant (link), and electrician, or plumbers puddy (with link).

• Coloured electrical tape or markers. It can be difficult to keep track of which antenna corresponds with which cable once a station has been set up. Bring a few colours of electrical tape so you can colour code the antennas and coaxial cables.

• Zip ties, cable ties, zap straps. These are indispensable for coaxial cable organisation. Used to support the coax cable along the antenna boom and mast.

• Hex nuts and bolts. We use ¼” x 2” bolts for tripod assembly and ¼” x 1” bolts for affixing solar panels to the tripod**.** Use zinc-plates steel unless the station is deployed in a marine area where stainless steel should be used.

Antenna mount

Antennas are usually attached to a metal pipe or mast using a type of mounting bracket. Small antennas, like 434 MHz Yagis, all omni antennas, and 3- to 5- element Yagis for the 150-166 MHz band can be butt-mounted using a bracket which fits onto one end of the boom. Large antennas, like 6- to 9-element Yagis for the 150-166 MHz band need to be mounted along their mid-point to even out the lateral force on the mast. Larger antenna can be butt-mounted, but usually require support wires attached to the mid or end point of the antenna.

Nearly all antenna mounts use a metal plate with 4 u-bolts; 2 for the antenna boom and 2 for the mast. For most antennas, the boom is mounted perpendicular to the mast, but omni antennas will often be mounted pointing straight up, meaning both the antenna and mast will be in the same orientation.

Coax connector

Most antennas will have a connector on the driven element for the coax cable to be connected. The driven element and this connector are the most sensitive parts of a Yagi antenna; pay special attention to these parts so they are not impacted by anything. Damage to the driven element may cause the antenna to no longer be tuned to the desired frequency.

Antenna orientation

The orientation of an antenna changes the horizontal range relative to the vertical range. For instance, an omni antenna can be oriented straight upwards to have a uniform detectability along the horizontal and vertical axes, or it could be pointed horizontally to create a more restricted, lateral detection area. Similarly, Yagi antennas can be rotated along the boom to select a wider horizontal or vertical beamwidth.

Antenna spacing

Most Motus stations will host multiple antennas, but this may pose an issue depending on the types and position of the antennas.

Simple modeling by Bob Morton at Maple Leaf Communications suggests there is a significant dropoff in the detection range of Yagi antennas when they are stacked too close together.

We have developed the following guidelines based on these models:

• Antennas that facing opposite directions should be the furthest apart from one-another: at least 1/2 a wavelength (~1 meter for 166.38 MHz).

• Antennas that are facing perpendicular directions should be at least a 1/4 wavelength apart (~1/2 meter).

Heavy-duty Container

Supplies

• 90L Rubbermaid Action Packer or equivalent heavy-duty, waterproof container.

  • If using an alternative, ensure the container is actually

    waterproof and the lid is not concave such that water pools on

    top. Handles will need to be closed securely either with zip

    ties or a lock.

• To prevent water ingress:

  • 2-inch pipe elbow (90 degrees) similar to:

  • 2-inch pipe bushing, similar to:

  • Electrical tape or ABS cement

• Zip ties

• [Optional] To prevent insects and rodent ingress

  • Plastic bags and/or steel wool.

  • Aluminum window screening.

  • JB Weld epoxy or equivalent.

    • Container and stir stick for epoxy.

  • Tool to cut into underside of container (e.g.: exacto knife).

Tools

• Drill

• 1/4" or similar sized drill bit

Instructions

1. Drill 2” hole on one end of the Action Packer, about 6" from its base.

2. Place the 2-inch pipe bushing through the hole from the inside of the bin.

   1. Apply a single layer of electrical tape or ABS cement to the exposed end of the bushing on the outside of the bin.

   2. Attach the 2-inch pipe elbow to the bushing from the outside of the bin and force into place with the open end of the elbow pointing down.

   3. Using the 1/4" drill bit, drill a couple holes in each of the bottom corners of the bin. This is to prevent water from pooling if it gets in somehow.

3. [Optional] To prevent insect and rodent ingress

   1. Cut a pieces of aluminum window screen large enough to cover the holes drilled into each of the corners of the bin.

   2. Prepare the epoxy

   3. Place the piece of aluminum window screen over the hole and apply a generous amount of the mixed epoxy around the entire edge, ensuring no gaps remain.

   4. Once you have inserted all necessary cables into the bin, including your GPS and SensorGnome, you will need to pack the remaining space in the elbow with plastic bags (insects) and/or steel wool (rodents).

In regions where thunderstorms are frequent, we recommend that Motus stations be grounded. We have kindly been provided with instructions for how to make Motus stations R56 compliant in the PDF document below. Note that even if R56 compiance is not a requirement for your Motus stations, this document provides helpful guidance on grounding your Motus station.

Prerequisites

Location

• Must be flat and void of obstructions so antennas have a clear line of site.

• Cannot be near any elevated power or telephone lines for safety reasons.

• Tripod feet will sink into soft ground - use gravel or choose a hard/dry location to install. Also affix pieces of wood to each tripod foot to support the weight and movement and to prevent sinking (‘snow-shoe).

• Ground must be soft enough to insert anchors (1 m/3 ft. or more, depending on hardness).

• Choose a well-elevated site to avoid any risk of flooding during heavy rains or tidal surges.

• Footprint of a pop-tower with guy wires has a radius equal to 70% of the tower’s final height.

Hardware

• Pop tower

  • Tripod

  • Wooden blocks (optional)

  • Mast

    • Height will depend on location, desired detections. 40-feet is maximum suggested height.

    • Comes with a and 1x 3-inch bolt for each mast section.

  • Foot for mast (optional)

  • Guy wires (1/16 galvenized for inland sites; 3/32" stainless for marine areas)

  • Quick links and/or carabiners (max 3/16”)

  • [Optional] Turnbuckles with nuts or stainless steel wire (snare wire)

  • In-line wire tensioners.

  • Anchors

    • Can use #6 rebar in 3-foot sections or

      .

Tools

• Impact driver and/or ratchet

  • 7/16” socket

  • ½” deep socket

• Ratchet with ½” drive

• Drill

  • Cobalt drill bits (or equivalent) for metal drilling.

    • 3/16" and 1/4"

  • Phillips/Robinson’s screwdrivers for screws

Instructions

Tripod + Mast Assembly

1. Assemble the tripod according to instructions provided by the manufacturer.

   • It is easiest to install the TRM-10L with it lying on its side.

2. Insert mast into the center of the tripod. Bolts on the tripod's centre brackets may need to be loosened to allow space for the mast to slide through.

3. Attach foot to base of mast.

4. Attach lower guy wires to the lower guy ring using quick links or carabiners.

5. Place tripod + mast assembly upright.

6. Position the assembly so the mast stands level and the tripod legs are on stable ground.

7. Screw on wooden blocks to the tripod legs to prevent them from sinking into the ground. This is suggested for most installations as the ground will soften in the spring and fall.

   • Alternatively, you can bury cement blocks filled with sand for

     each foot to stand on.

8. If you are mounting a solar panel, rotate the tripod so that the ‘ladder’ side with four crossbars is facing south.

9. Place three anchors 7 feet (2 m) from the base of the mast such that once the guy wires are attached they are between the tripod legs.

   • If using angle iron

10. Attach the loose end of the lower guy wires to each anchor.

11. Tighten the guy wires with:

    • In-line wire tensioner:

      1. Remove tensioner lock.

      2. Place guy wire in the slot of tensioner.

      3. Insert ½” drive ratchet into square slot of tensioner.

      4. Use the ratchet to tightly spool guy wire until taught, but not too taught.

         • Tripod legs will lift off the ground if too tight, or

           the mast will bend.

      5. Insert tensioner lock in opposing holes to keep guy wire in place.

      6. Multiple tensioners may be necessary if there is too much excess guy wire.

    • 1. Before all guy wires are taught, loosen the turnbuckle until only 2 full turns remain.

      2. Tighten guy wires, either with in-line wire tensioners or another method.

      3. Use turnbuckles to finely adjust wire tension until all sides have equal tension.
12. Confirm tower is being held securely in place by guy wires by inspecting each end of all guy lines to ensure it is properly attached.

Mounting Antennas

2. Finger-tighten the U-bolts which attach to the antenna boom such that it can still rotate.

3. Loosely-attach the second set of U-bolts.

4. Coaxial cables should already be attached, sealed, and zip-tied to the antenna boom (one tie by driven element, a second tie by the mounting bracket).

5. Ensure the tripod is securely guyed at the base and is safe to climb.

6. Climb the tripod of the tower and pull out some of the top-most section of masting from the telescopic mast.

7. Slide the U-bolts of the antenna mounting bracket onto the mast and allow it to rest on the guy ring at the top of the tripod.

8. Rotate the antennas such that the elements are horizontal and then tighten the U-bolts which affix the boom to the mounting bracket. Don't tighten the U-bolts attaching the antenna mounts to the mast - this will be done later.

9. Slide on all other antennas in a similar manner (steps 7 and 8) except for the top-most.

10. Securely attach the mast collar approx 30 cm (1 foot) from the top of the mast and then slide on the spare guy ring and attach the top-most guy lines (they don't need to be anchored yet).

11. Slide on the last antenna and attach it securely in place approximately 15 cm (6") from the top (~15 cm above the guy ring).

12. Mark out planned antenna directions on the ground using visual markers so you can easily point antennas in those directions.

13. Determine the height of each antenna based on our guidelines for stacked antennas and then colour-code each antenna and coax cable so that they can be identified when plugging them in to the receiver.

    Our convention: port 1 = top (red or 1 stripe), port 2 = middle (yellow or 2 stripes), port 3 = bottom (green or 3 stripes).

14. Before raising the mast, ensure all guy lines and coax cables are uncoiled, and that the antennas and coax are colour-coded.

15. While holding the top-most section of masting with one hand, loosen the top-most L-bolt and then begin raising the mast.

16. Once there is adequate space between the upper-most antenna, tighten the L-bolt so the mast stays in place and then fix the next antenna to the mast, ensuring that both the top and middle antenna are pointing in the intended final direction.

17. Repeat steps 15 and 16 until all antennas have been fixed to the mast.

18. Continue raising the mast section until the hole below the L-bolt no longer shows metal on the inside.

19. Once the mast section has been raised, slide a 3-inch bolt through the hole below the L-bolt for that section and then allow the top section to rest on top of that bolt.

20. With the top mast section resting on top of the bolt, rotate it until it locks in place and starts rotating with the section below it. Tighten the L-bolt.

21. Continue raising mast sections (following steps 18-20) until the desired height has been reached. Don't worry if the angles aren't perfect - you can adjust the whole mast at the end.

22. If at the final height you cannot fit the 3-inch bolt into the hole below the L-bolt (because the inner masting is in the way), you can drill through the masting to insert the bolt. Make sure you lock the L-bolt in place!

23. Ensure the bolts on the tripod's centre brackets are loosened and then rotate the entire mast to it's final position (you may need 2 people to do this).

24. Tighten the centre bracket bolts, being careful not to dent the mast.

25. Place guy wire anchors at a distance from the mast that is approximately 70% of its height on the mast.